

More house on the block you already own
An extension or second storey addition is the way to get more house without leaving the street, the school catchment or the block you already own. Across Brisbane, Ipswich, Logan, Moreton Bay, Redland and the coasts, the housing stock that suits it best — post-war brick and timber homes on decent lots — is also the stock most likely to carry surprises in the frame, the footings and the services.
Design Homes is a QBCC licensed, owner-run builder and a Master Builders Queensland member. Harj Tiwana runs every site personally, and on an addition that matters because the existing house sets the geometry, nothing is square, and decisions have to be made on site by someone with the authority to make them.
Why Choose Our Service
Engineering before design
Footings, frame and roof assessed by a structural engineer before the plan is committed to.
Out or up, compared honestly
Site cover, yard, structural capacity and outlook weighed for a ground-floor extension versus a second storey.
Approvals handled
Building approval through a certifier, and development approval where setbacks, height or overlays trigger it.
Staged roof removal
Temporary roofing and sectional staging so the house is never left open to the weather.
Asbestos and termite checks
Licensed testing and removal before demolition starts, not after the crew has opened a wall.
Fixed price, stated contingency
Hidden conditions carried as a written allowance, reported and priced before any work proceeds.
Project Gallery
Extend out or go up
The first question is whether the block can take the extension. Site cover limits, setbacks and the yard you actually use put a ceiling on how far a ground-floor extension can spread, and on a smaller lot a rear extension can consume the last of the outdoor space. Going up preserves the yard and often captures outlook and breeze, but it costs more per square metre and asks a great deal more of the existing structure.
A second storey needs the existing frame, walls and footings to carry it. Post-war timber homes on stumps, and brick veneer or double brick homes on strip footings, were designed for one level. Sometimes the structure can be strengthened; sometimes the practical answer is a new steel or engineered timber frame that stands inside or beside the existing walls and carries the upper floor independently, down to new footings.
The honest comparison covers cost, time, disruption and result. Where a ground-floor extension delivers the rooms you need without ruining the yard, it usually wins. Where the block is tight or the outlook is up, a second storey earns its cost. We put both in front of you rather than assuming.
Engineering the existing house
Before design goes far, a structural engineer assesses what is there: slab or stumps, footing depth and condition, wall framing and bracing, lintels and the roof structure. On a raised home that means getting under the house; on a slab home it may mean a small excavation at a footing to confirm its depth. For a second storey this is not optional.
Floor levels and roof tie-ins are where additions show their quality. A new floor has to meet the old one without a step, and the new roof has to connect to the existing roof so water is shed rather than trapped at the junction. Box gutters at tie-ins are a common failure point and are designed out wherever possible.
A new stair reshapes the ground floor. It needs roughly the footprint of a small bedroom, has to land somewhere sensible on both levels, and has to comply with current rise, going and headroom requirements. Its position is often the single decision that determines whether the rest of the ground floor plan works.
Services move with the structure. Plumbing stacks for upstairs bathrooms need to drop through the ground floor in places that suit both levels, and an older switchboard commonly needs upgrading once the load and the circuit count increase.
Approvals, overlays and matching the street
Every extension and addition needs building approval through a private certifier. Development approval from council is triggered when the work departs from the accepted standards — exceeding a height limit, encroaching on setbacks, sitting on a small lot, or falling within a character or neighbourhood overlay. Whether a given addition triggers it varies by council and by lot, so we check the current council requirements before committing to a design.
Inside a character overlay, particularly on pre-1947 homes in inner Brisbane, a second storey is usually assessed for its effect on the streetscape. A design that sits behind the existing roofline or reads as a subordinate form generally has an easier path than one that changes the front elevation.
Then there is the question of whether the new work should match or contrast. Matching brick after decades of weathering is difficult, and a deliberate contrast in cladding — lightweight sheet or timber over the existing brick, for example — is often more convincing than a near miss. Either approach works if it is decided rather than defaulted into.
Living through the works and what is hidden
Staying in the house through a ground-floor extension is often workable behind a sealed hoarding between old and new. Staying through a second storey addition is much harder: the roof comes off, ceilings are exposed and services are interrupted. We stage the work so the existing roof is removed in sections with temporary roofing in place before each section goes, but for most families a period out of the house is the realistic option and we say so early.
Before any demolition, we check for asbestos and termites. Asbestos is likely in eaves, wet area linings and some flooring in homes built before the late 1980s, and it requires licensed removal with documentation. Termite damage in timber framing is common across SEQ and can change what the structure is able to carry.
Hidden conditions on additions are predictable in kind if not in extent: undersized or decayed footings, non-compliant previous work, rotted top plates, undersized lintels, and wiring or plumbing that has to be replaced once exposed. We investigate before contract, then price on a fixed basis with a clearly stated contingency for what remains hidden. Anything we find is reported and priced in writing before we act on it.
Common questions
Can my house take a second storey?
Most can, but not always on the existing structure. A structural engineer assesses the footings, stumps or slab, wall framing and roof before design. Some homes can be strengthened; others need a new frame that carries the upper floor independently to new footings. The assessment happens before you commit, so the answer shapes the design rather than the budget.
Is it cheaper to extend out or build up?
Extending out is usually less per square metre because it avoids strengthening the existing structure, a new stair and temporary roofing. Going up preserves the yard and can capture views and breeze. On a tight lot, or where site cover is near its limit, a second storey may be the only way to get the space.
Do I need council approval for an extension?
Building approval through a private certifier is always required. Development approval from council is triggered when the design departs from accepted standards — height, setbacks, site cover, small lot provisions or a character overlay. Requirements vary between councils and lots, so we check the current requirements for your address before the design is fixed.
Can we live in the house during the work?
Often yes for a ground-floor extension, behind a sealed hoarding. For a second storey addition it is much harder, because the roof comes off and services are interrupted. We stage the roof removal with temporary protection, but for most families moving out for part of the build is the realistic plan, and we raise it early.
What are hidden conditions and who pays for them?
Typically decayed or undersized footings, rotted framing, termite damage, non-compliant previous work and services that must be replaced once exposed. We investigate before contract and price on a fixed basis with a clearly stated contingency. Anything found is reported and priced in writing before we act on it, so nothing arrives as a surprise variation.
Should the extension match the existing house?
Either can work. Matching weathered brick or render after decades is difficult, and a near miss can look worse than a deliberate contrast. Lightweight cladding over existing brick, or a clearly modern rear pavilion behind a traditional front, is often the more convincing result. What matters is that the decision is made rather than defaulted into.
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